| 25 April to 2
May 2006 |
Doñana & Extremadura, Spain
This was the first overseas trip and the first
one organised by a bird watching tour company so we were very interested to see
how things worked out
The eight of us met up at Stansted Airport prior to
catching the Ryanair evening flight to Seville FR8363. We were met at
Seville airport by John Butler the owner and tour leader of Doñana Bird
Tours. He took us to the Hostal Pino Doñana in Hinojos.
John is a professional licensed guide and author of "Birdwatching on
Spain's Southern Coast" More can be read about John at the end of
this report.
The reports below are extracted from John's web site
with his kind permission together with impressions of each day.
Day 1
We were met in the morning by John where we made for
the first site, which was the El Rocío marshes. From the old SEO observatory we
had good views of Greater Flamingos, Black-winged Stilts, Avocets, Ruff,
Greenshanks, Great Crested Grebes, White Storks, Black, Whiskered and Gull-billed Terns, Sand Martins, Barn Swallows, Spotless Starlings, Reed
Warblers and a very bold Cetti's Warbler, that sat openly in a tree no more than
4 metres from us.
We then moved on to the La Rocina reserve and from the first hide we saw Little
Grebes, Woodchat Shrikes, Nightingales, Great Reed Warblers and Purple
Swamp-hens. In the forest there were Long-tailed Tits, Tree Sparrows,
Chaffinches, Serins and 2 Short-toed Treecreepers. At the marshy area of the
Charco de la Boca I picked out a Little Bittern, sitting openly in a reedbed.
This was followed by a Purple Heron and then a Black-crowned Night Heron.
In other areas we found both Savi's, Sardinian and Melodious Warblers.
We had our picnic lunch at the El Acebuche centre, amongst Black-billed and
Iberian (Azure-winged) Magpies and Great Tits. We then entered the park and
found Red-crested Pochards, Little Egrets, Grey Herons, Little-ringed Plovers,
an Olivaceous Warbler, an Icterine Warbler and a pair of Crested Tits that were
nesting in a hole in a tree. We were able to set up the scopes from about 30
metres and had excellent views of the birds entering and leaving their nest
site.
We then visited the Las Guayules area in search of raptors and scrub birds. We
quickly connected with 3 Booted Eagles, Black Kites, Common Kestrels and 2
Griffon Vultures. We also found Crested Larks, Corn Buntings and Stonechats.
Our last bird of the day was heard calling nearby and took a bit of patience
before we were finally rewarded with cracking views of a male Golden Oriole.
The main impression of the day was the beauty
and lushness of the countryside. Having experienced a drought for twenty
months, the good rains which started in October were very welcome and now meant
that the vegetation was in the best possible condition and the flowers were
blooming in profusion. One result of the recent wet weather was mist in
the morning. This cleared before lunch and the afternoon was warm and
cloudless.
© Ian Kilshaw White Stork with chick on nest
A
complete list of birds seen during the day
Day 2
We were driven straight to the Corredor Verde.
As we approached the Laguna Mancho Zurillo we immediately spotted a Common
Cuckoo, perched no more than 60 metres away, and it remained for over 10
minutes, despite the activity of 9 people moving around looking for other birds.
Around the lagoon we saw Common Sandpipers, White Storks, Cattle Egrets,
Bee-eaters, Hoopoes, Iberian Magpies, Crested Larks, Black Kites and Booted
Eagles.
In the Corredor Verde we saw numerous Black-shouldered Kites, including two
recently fledged youngsters that had only recently left the nest. We also saw
Little Egrets, Black-crowned Night Herons, Woodchat Shrikes, Corn Buntings,
Spanish Sparrows, an Olivaceous Warbler, a Little Owl, Turtle Doves and
Red-rumped Swallows.
At the "reedbeds" there were Spoonbills, Black-winged Stilts, Reed and Great Reed Warblers, a Savi's Warbler (unsatisfactory views), Gull-billed Terns
and Marsh Harriers.
A visit to the "heron ponds" produced 4 Red-knobbed Coots,
Little-ringed Plovers and a Kingfisher.
At the Cañada de Rianzuella we found Great Crested and Little Grebes,
Common and Red-crested Pochards, Gadwalls, Avocets, Greater Flamingos,
Black-headed Gulls, Whiskered Terns, White and Yellow Wagtails and
Jackdaws.
We spent the afternoon in the northern marshes and saw 2 Great White Egrets,
Purple Herons, Squacco Herons, Greenshanks, a male White-headed Duck,
Black-necked Grebes, Sand Martins, Barn Swallows, Glossy Ibis, a Savi's Warbler
(good views this time), Ravens, Spotless Starlings, Common Kestrels and a
Short-toed Eagle.
In the Corredor Verde we saw the result of a
major pollution problem. A dam at a mine upstream had been breached with
the result that a wide variety of heavy metals had flooded the plain for a width
of two kilometers. Farms had been deserted and the result was that nature
had taken over. The ground has since recovered and was left with a
wonderful habitat for wildlife. Again there was mist in the morning but
again it cleared before lunch.
 
© Ian Kilshaw Group at dinner
A
complete list of birds seen during the day
Day 3
We were driven up to Extremadura as a part of
our 2-centered packaged birding tour, but before we left this region we stopped
at Las Doblas, a site that doesn't feature too often in my tours. We were the
only people in the park and we had fantastic views of Nightingales, Cetti's
Warblers, Great Reed Warblers, Crested Larks, Stonechats, Bee-eaters, Corn
Buntings, Purple Herons, Black-winged Stilts, Little-ringed Plovers, Purple
Swamp-hens and at least 5 Little Bitterns.
We arrived at Cáceres (Extremadura) at about 4pm and drove onto the plains in
search of steppe birds. Almost immediately we were finding some good birds, such
as Red and Black Kites, Griffon and Black Vultures, Montagu's
Harriers, Kestrels, several Short-toed Eagles, Booted Eagles, 2 Golden Eagles,
numerous Rollers, Little Owls, Calandra Larks, Woodchat Shrikes, Northern
Wheatears and an Ortolan. It had been a long day so we drove to our hotel in
Torrejon el Rubio and had a good meal and an early night.
A clear morning greeted us on our drive to
Extremadura. The scenery quickly changed from the coastal marshy area on
Doñana. The mountainous area of Extremadura is extremely beautiful.
© Ian Kilshaw Group
watching Bonelli's Eagle
(John Butler
with back to camera)
A
complete list of birds seen during the day
Day 4
We visited Monfragüe national park. Our first
stop was at the Arroyo de la Vid, where we saw Griffon and Black
Vultures, Black Kites, a Merlin, Iberian Magpies, Serins, Blackcaps, Spanish
Sparrows and Long-tailed Tits.
We then climbed up to the Castillo de Monfragüe and found Blue Rock Thrushes,
Common Swifts, Crag Martins, Red-legged Partridges, Rock Buntings, Linnets, Blue
Tits, Chaffinches and 2 Red-billed Choughs.
At the Peña Falcon there were numerous vultures, Ravens and at least 4 Black
Storks.
At the Puente de Cardenal we saw Barn Swallows, a Nightingale and numerous
Alpine Swifts.
We stopped near Villareal de San Carlos and saw Sardinian, Subalpine and
Orphean
Warblers. From a lay-by we found a Bonelli's Eagles nest and saw both adults and
2 eaglets in the nest.
At the Tajadilla view point there were Iberian Magpies and 2 Egyptian Vultures.
At the Portillo de Tietar we had excellent views of both of the nesting Spanish
Imperial Eagles and also of one of the eaglets. Nearby we found the nest site of
a pair of Eagle Owls, but only saw 2 fairly mature owlets.
As we were returning to the hotel we saw 3 Black-eared Wheatears, Greenfinches
and a Woodlark.
The morning was initially rather cold with an
icy wind blowing from the snow capped mountains. However this wind soon
dropped and the day became increasingly warm. Another sunny and clear
day! Monfragüe National Park gave us excellent views of both wonderful
birds and scenery.
© Reg Cox Black Stork
A
complete list of birds seen during the day
Day 5
Firstly we visited the Belen plains. As we
drove from Torrejon el Rubio we saw Black and Red Kites, Iberian Magpies,
Hoopoes, Southern Grey and Woodchat Shrikes, White Storks and Cattle
Egrets.
As soon as we entered the plains we found a pair of Stone Curlews, which were
spotted by Ian, and lots of Corn Buntings, Crested Larks and Stonechats. Further
along the road , Reg found a solitary male Great Bustard, the only one seen
during the whole day. Elsewhere we saw Northern Wheatears, Black and Griffon Vultures, Buzzards, Kestrels, Calandra and Greater Short-toed
Larks, Spotless Starlings, Jackdaws, Ravens and Little Egrets.
We had lunch near Trujillo and made our way to the Cáceres plains, where we
watched a group of at least 12 Montagu's Harriers feeding and performing
aerobatics in a field. As we were driving, I spotted a Pin-tailed Sandgrouse,
about 30 metres from the road and pulled over to put the rest of the group onto
it. I then realized there were four birds and most of the group were able to get
good views.
Also on the plains we saw Little Owls, Black-winged Stilts and an Ortolan.
Another bight, clear and very warm day gave us
excellent opportunities to see new birds on the Belen plains although the recent
wetness made the grass rather long and we did not get Little Bustard.
© Ian Kilshaw Iberian Magpies
© Ian Kilshaw Fledgling
Black-shouldered Kite near the nest
A
complete list of birds seen during the day
Day 6
The first site we visited was the castle at
Niebla, to see the Lesser Kestrels, which put on a good display for us, There
were also Common and Pallid Swifts, Spotless Starlings, Jackdaws,
Goldfinches and, strangely, a Gull-billed Tern seen flying over the castle.
We the drove to the Laguna El Portil, seeing Corn Buntings, Crested Larks and 2
male Montagu's Harriers on the way. The lagoon was very quiet and we only
managed to see Common Pochards, Gadwalls, Great Crested and Little
Grebes, a Purple Heron, Hoopoes, Barn Swallows and Reed Warblers.
Our next stop was at the Marismas del Río Piedras and even before stopping the
van I had spotted a Caspian Tern sitting on a mudbank. We also found Sandwich,
Little and Black Terns, Dunlins, Whimbrels, Ringed Plovers, Turnstones,
Cormorants, Little and Cattle Egrets, Spoonbills, Yellow-legged Gulls,
Woodchat Shrikes, Sardinian Warblers, Whinchats and 2 Rollers.
We moved on to La Ribera and added Redshanks, Greenshanks, Grey Plovers,
Black-winged Stilts, Bee-eaters and Southern Grey Shrikes to our list.
Most of the afternoon was spent at the Marismas del Odiel, finding Black-headed
and Lesser Black-backed Gulls, Audouin's Gulls, Sanderlings, Kentish Plovers,
Common Sandpipers, Red-crested Pochards, a Red-knobbed Coot, Greater Flamingos,
Marsh Harriers and Red-rumped Swallows.
Our last stop of the day was at the Laguna Primera de Palos. Here we saw, along
with many of the previously mentioned species, Purple Swamp-hens, Collared
Doves, Black-billed Magpies and Zitting Cisticolas.
The first day back in Doñana greeted us with
a dense fog and we thought that we would need radar rather than scopes!
Hover as we approached Niebla (fog in Spanish!) the fog cleared and we had
another beautiful day.
© Ian Kilshaw Lesser Kestrel
A
complete list of birds seen during the day
Day 7
This was the last of the 7 days for the group and we had
requested that there were several target species that they particularly wanted
to see that we had not yet recorded, namely Collared Praticoles, Squacco Herons
and Marbled Ducks. We began birding at the Raya Real and found Tree Sparrows,
Woodchat Shrikes, Corn Buntings and Red-legged Partridges. We then moved on to a
small waterscrape where there were Ringed and Little-ringed Plovers,
Dunlins, Common Sandpipers, Black-winged Stilts and White Storks.
Our next stop was the "turf farm", a fairly reliable site for Collared
Pratincoles, and we were not disappointed, with about 50 birds showing very
well. There were also Cattle Egrets and Greater Short-toed Larks.
At the Entremuros we found another target bird, a pair of Squacco herons. One
bird, in full breeding plumage, was perched on the railings of the bridge over
the Brazo de la Torre and thanks to the fact that no traffic passed for over 5
minutes, I was able to get the van to within 10 metres of the bird, giving great
views to everyone. A nearby Black-crowned Night Heron was an added bonus.
We stopped at the Cañada de Rianzuella for an hour, looking for Marbled Ducks,
but unfortunately, this species continued to elude us. However, we did see Black
Kites, Booted Eagles, Bee-eaters, a male Garganey, 4 White-headed Ducks, Common and Red-crested Pochards, Shovelers, Gadwalls, Great Crested, Black-necked and Little Grebes, Whiskered, Black and Gull-billed Terns, Spoonbills,
Greater Flamingos and a Red-knobbed Coot.
We then drove to the Dehesa de Pilas and saw hundreds of Spanish Sparrows,
Red-rumped Swallows, Common Swifts, Little Egrets, Marsh Harriers, 4 Short-toed
Eagles, Ravens and Griffon Vultures
We spent the last hour of the day watching a Black-shouldered Kite family at the
Corredor Verde, where the young kites have now left the nest.
© Reg Cox Collared Pratincole
© Ian Kilshaw Collared Pratincoles
The last day saw us get up to a bright and clear
day. The weather was very hot and humidity built up during the day.
By 2 o'clock it was 32C. As we were waiting in the departure lounge a
thunder storm broke out and we had a very bumpy ascent to altitude on the return
journey
John returned us to Seville airport where we
boarded a Ryanair light FR8364 back to Stansted Airport
A
complete list of birds seen during the day
A
complete list of birds seen during the whole trip
The conclusion reached by all of us was that the trip had been very worthwhile
and superbly organised by John Butler. In addition to the background
organisation that John had done before the visit, all his driving, expertise in
identifying the local birds and his chat made for a very happy time. This
was amply helped by really excellent lunches provided by his wife, Rebecca. Our
bird count for the holiday was 150 seen and identified and 3 heard only.
The trip had been organised and led by John Butler the
owner of Doñana Bird Tours.
John is a highly competent and very pleasant
man who gave us a wonderful time on the whole trip. We could not have
wished for better service and would certainly recommend John to anyone
interested in visiting this bird paradise. A visit to his web site www.donanabirdtours.com will give a fascinating insight into what he has to offer. In addition he
can be contacted by email on john@donanabirdtours.com
The weather could not have been better and it gave us
excellent opportunities to see over 150 species many of them lifers for all of
us.
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